Camera Gear

Recently I’ve had people asking me what equipment I use to take photos while kayaking and mountain biking, so I thought it might be good to do a post specifically geared (no pun intended) to this topic. First off, I am by no means a professional, or even an amateur photographer -- I’m simply an overzealous hobbyist that that also has a problem when it comes to spending money on gear, just ask anyone who knows me. With that out of the way, let’s get to the discussion at hand.

What kind of setup do I need?
This would be like asking, what kind of kayak or mountain bike do I need? Obviously it depends on what you’re looking to get out of it--there is no right answer here. Start by asking yourself “What features are important to me?” Life is full of compromises, and camera gear is no different. Here are a couple of considerations:

1. Cost: How much money do you want to spend? The sky is the limit here.

2. Weather resistance: e.g. A waterproof point & shoot (with which you can take pictures from your boat) vs. a non-waterproof camera (kept in a dry container with pictures taken from shore). One disadvantage of the waterproof camera used while in your boat is water droplets on the lens. I have seen a lot of photos, which could have been really good, ruined simply by this.

3. Compactness: How big of a camera do you want to lug around? I know many people that have bought a DSLR without considering this, and eventually it ends up collecting dust as a paperweight. That said, DSLRs are great (I have one), but once again, make sure you understand the bulk associated with them.

4. Photo quality: The reality is that you can take solid pictures with a point & shoot (P&S), but to really unlock your creative talent, you may want to look into getting a large sensor / interchangeable lens setup.

5. Features: e.g. Video modes, low light performance, manual exposure controls, live view (w/ histogram).

6. End use: Are you simply taking pictures to post on Facebook, using them for a blog (as I am), or planning to make money off them? Your answer here will greatly influence the first four considerations.

My gear list:
Okay, let’s get to what I shoot with. Based on my requirements/limitations of a median budget, high quality images, compactness/convenience, and end use, I opted for the following:

The equipment

Camera Body(s):
1. Sony NEX-5N (primary)
I went with a mirrorless, interchangeable lens system for my primary setup. Probably the most popular of this market are the four-thirds variety -- however, by the time I was ready to purchase, Sony had just came out with an ambitious offering by way of the NEX system. The NEX’s selling point for me was its relatively compact form factor and large sensor (APS-C sensor; the same size found on a majority of the DSLRs on the market). The NEX-5N can also capture video at 1080p @ 60fps, not bad for putting together some high quality flicks. One of my favorite features on the NEX system is the live view / histogram, which is really invaluable for setting exposure quickly and effectively. For a review/more info on the NEX-5N, go here.

This shows the size advantage of the NEX-5N over
a standard DSLR, in this case my Pentax K20D.

The 5N with the 16mm pancake lens. Fits in
the palm of your hand, or pocket for that matter.

It should be noted that all the NEX cameras, except the recently released NEX-7, do not have a viewfinder. That said, Sony does sell an external viewfinder (FDA-EV1S) which is specifically designed for and only fits on the 5N. At ~$350, it's considered the best electronic viewfinder made, and it shows. Another attachment that Sony sells is an Alpha Lens adapter (LA-EA2), which allows you to use Sony's entire line of Minolta/Alpha mount lenses. Further, it adds phase-detection auto-focus (via internal mirrors), essentially turning the NEX into a full fledged DSLR. Unfortunately, it's also very expensive at ~$400.

The NEX-5N with the Alpha lens converter (LA-EA2)
and OLED Viewfinder (FDA-EV1S). This essentially makes
it a true DSLR, and at the same time, all but eliminates its
compact size advantage. However, you add Phase-Detection AF
and the ability to use Sony's entire lens line-up.

2. Pentax K20D (bad weather camera):
A true DSLR, and what I go to when weather is going to be nasty, since it touts a burly weatherproof build, blocking both rain and dust from its insides. This thing is a beast (big) and actually has worse image quality / low light performance than my NEX, but it does have some additional features that are nice, including time-lapse capabilities and phase detection auto-focus. For a review/more info on the K20D, go here.

The K20D showing off its weather resistant
armor -- try doing that with your typical DSLR

Lenses:
NEX-5N:
1. Sony 18-200mm /F3.5-6.3 (e-mount) - This is my workhorse lens, which is amazingly sharp for a zoom that covers this large of focal range. However, it's also fairly spendy at $800.

2. Sony 18-55mm/F3.5-5.6 (e-mount) - This lens is actually pretty darn good for a kit lens. Not quite as sharp as the 18-200, but still a great range when I don't want to lug around the larger lens.

3. Sony 16mm pancake /F2.8 (e-mount) - This lens can also be purchased as a kit lens, and is incredibly small, making it great for mountain biking. It's pretty soft in the corners, but is actually quite sharp at F5.6 to F8. The other nice thing about it is its ability to accept the following two converters.

4. Sony 12mm wide-angle converter for the 16mm (e-mount) - This is a great adapter that really opens up the viewing angle. I love using this for shooting down on someone going over a waterfall, for it makes the drop look bigger than it is. This can be had for about $100, which is a real bargain.

5. Sony 10mm Fisheye converter for the 16mm (e-mount) - This is also a really fun adapter. I've been using this for super close-up shots of someone coming into or out of a drop -- it really creates a dynamic effect. This can also be picked up for $100, and should definitely be in your NEX kit.

6. Sony 35mm/F1.8 (Alpha Mount) - A budget lens (~$200), that has fantastic optics for the price tag; even when shot wide open at F1.8. This is a great mid-focal length that I pull out in low-light situations that are quite common during the winter in the Pacific Northwest.

7. Sony 50mm/F1.8 (Alpha Mount) - Another budget high-quality prime (~$150) which is almost identical to the 35mm in every aspect except focal length.

Lenses 1 thru 7, from left to right. Note the LA-EA2

adapter on the 35mm/F1.8 (second from the right)

K20D:
Pentax 18-135 WR (weather resistant lens)

I have many more lenses than this lying around the house, but I rarely pull from them for kayaking or mountain biking. Basically the ones listed here more than cover my needs for adventure photography.

Storage:
Kayaking:
The main requirements for storing your camera while kayaking is that it must be both waterproof and shockproof. If you don’t have a camera with these functions built-in (I’ve only seen them available in point & shoot) then you’re going to need a good container. I know many people that use drybags (e.g. Watershed) and love them, but I’ve always preferred Pelican cases for the ease of use (opening and closing), as well as superior shock resistance. Depending on the situation and gear I’m bringing, I have three that I choose from:


Pelican 1120 – This case can hold my NEX-5N with the 18-200, but it’s cramped and there is no room for any other lenses. This is what I prefer for self-support multi-day trips (based on its compact size) or runs I don’t feel I need to get too creative taking shots.

As you can see, it's a tight fit with the 5N/18-200mm combo.
Also note that you won't be able to attach the viewfinder.

Pelican 1150 – This case is my workhorse, it lets me carry my NEX-5N and a wide-angle setup. There is also plenty of room for a couple of rags, which are necessary for wiping water from my hands and the camera.

Perfect for the 5N/18-200mm combo + 16mm/fisheye combo

One of my favorite things about the Bliss Stick Mystic
is the storage compartment between the legs. It fits the
1150 perfectly, which makes me think that's what it was
designed for. The one addition I made was the buckle
strap, which I feel is more secure and makes it easier
to access than the bungee cord.

Pelican 1200 – This is the only case that my Pentax K20D DSLR will fit in – luckily it has enough of a footprint to also carry some accessories like those rags. I also use this case if I feel like bringing multiple lenses with my 5N.

Due to the height, this is the only case that will accommodate most DLSRs.
Unfortunately it's not as good of a fit under the knees as the 1150.

Mountain Biking:
Luckily with mountain biking you don’t really need a waterproof container, but it is advisable to have something that is both dust and rain repellent and protects from impact if you crash. Another big consideration is ease of access. If your camera is hard to get to (e.g. zipped up in your Camelbak), chances are you aren’t going to take a lot of photos. Based on these factors as well as what camera setup I plan to bring, I use either my Mountain Feedbag or my LowePro chestpack.

Mountain Feedbag:
This wonderful gizmo was developed by a gal in Oakridge, Oregon and has become a common fixture on the bikes of local riders. Most people use them to store food and tools, especially for racing where it allows you to get to items quickly. For me it’s the perfect fit for my NEX-5N with the 16mm pancake lens, making my camera easy to grab to fire off those quick shots. I can actually fit my 5N with the 18-55mm kit lens in the Feedbag, but it’s definitely tight.

The Mountain Feedbag conveniently hangs at the
handlebar/stem intersection. This makes for a quick
grab so you don't miss the action. One bit of advice
is to make sure you have a screen protector on your
camera, as it is prone to getting scratched while
pulling it out/putting it back in.

A good fit with the 5N/16mm combo

Another shot showing how good it fits

LowPro Chestpack:
This pack is quite large, I can even fit my K20D inside it. That said, I barely notice it when I’m riding. I’ve been told it looks kinda silly and like I’m transporting a baby, so if you're worried about fashion, this may not be the best choice. For me the benefits are the easy access and relatively protected location (I haven’t taken many chest-plants). The harness accessory I bought for it that keeps the bag stable, even when the trail gets choppy -- I was pretty surprised with how well it performed in this regard. My biggest concern is how hot it will be to wear in the summer, which I’ve yet to test.

Although the chestpack looks big,
you really don't notice it much while riding.

A self-portrait of the side view

So there you have it, a general overview of the photo equipment I use for Wheels & Water. Obviously this selection is based on my needs, and may or may not work for you. I strongly encourage you to determine your requirements and do your homework. Dpreview.com is a great place to get the info you need on specific cameras, with reviews on forums for each camera manufacturer.

On last bit of advice that I would give is to get your camera insured. I pay $17/yr which covers my N5 & 18-200mm lens with no deductible. A great peace of mind since dropping it in the water, theft, or some other foolish move would put me out ~$1,500.

Later, I’m planning to do a post on some of my recommended techniques, but once again, I make no claims of being a great photographer, I’m simply a hack that’s willing to share what works best for me. If you’re looking for additional advice (from a far better photographer than myself), check out Darin McQuoid’s blog and tutorials, found here.

Making a Breakdown Paddle

After borrowing a homemade two-piece breakdown from my buddy Loft (for our Deer Creek adventure), I had the inspiration to make my own from one of my old worn-down paddles. Not only did that paddle serve as an additional backup for the group, the two halves were also used to pitch my tarp, and worked extremely well.

Pseudo tent poles on our Deer Creek multi-day

Step 1 - Choosing a candidate:
Since this was my first attempt, I decided to pick the most worn of my retired paddles, just in case. This also meant that the paddle was a little shorter than the others, so it would be more likely to fit in different boats. On that note, the finished paddle, like Loft's, would only fit in my Prijon Hercules, not my Mystic. That said, it would probably be possible to cut more of the middle section to make it fit, which I may try if I ever decide to make another.

Eenie, meenie, miney, moe...

Step 2 - Cutting the paddle in half:
This step was by far the hardest. Although there was only a slim chance I would ever need to dig into the bench three deep, we were talking about a ~$350 paddle, at least at one point in its life. Once I had come to grips with what I was about to do, it was time to cut 'er in half.


I ended up using a chop saw, which was probably the best tool for the job -- although if you don't have one, and you have a steady hand, you could probably do it with a handsaw. Since this was a bent-shaft paddle, I needed to use some blocking to elevate it as well as hold it off the fence, but still keep it square to the blade. Since I have a lot of scrap pieces of wood laying around, this wasn't a problem. Once I had the paddle shaft positioned correctly, the rest went smoothly, with the blade cutting through the shaft like a hot knife through butter.

Making the cut. Hope this works out...

Step 3 - Pre measurements:
Now that I had the paddle cut in half, I could measure the inside diameter (I.D.) of the shaft to determine what size sleeve I would need to join the paddle back together with. It appeared that Warner also uses a sleeve when they factory join the paddle into a one piece. Since you can't remove it, and since there really isn't a need to, I simply took the I.D. measurement of the sleeve. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was measuring about .010" over .875", so using a 7/8" tube would probably work great, without any modifications.

Taking the I.D. measurement of the shaft
(technically the existing sleeve)

Step 4 - Ordering parts:
Once I had the sleeve size, I went to my favorite website (from playing an engineer at work), McMaster Carr, who I knew would have everything I needed. I had already decided that I was going to use aluminum, for its cost, weight, and relative strength properties -- it also doesn't rust, which is certainly a requirement based on its use. With the specifications known, I quickly found what I needed and added it to my cart (part# 9056K73)

The next item I needed to order was a bit more difficult, since I didn't know what the heck it was called. "You know, that button thingy you press to lock/unlock the two halves together..." Well, this thing, according to McMaster Carr, is called a "Quick-Release Button Connectors for Telescoping Tubing", which I found for me after typing a couple keywords into the search box. Knowing the wall thickness and I.D. of the sleeve I had just ordered, plus the wall thickness of the paddle shaft, I was able to order the correct one, which for me happened to be part# 92988A530.

Step 6 - Wait for parts...

Step 7 - Preparing the sleeve:
A couple things needed to be done to turn the tubing into a sleeve for the breakdown. First I needed to cut it to size, and after measuring another breakdown that I owned, I determined that it should be cut to 7", for a 3 1/2" inset into each half of the shaft. The next thing I needed to do was drill holes in the side that would be permanently set into one of the halves; the reason for this is to strengthen the joint by giving the epoxy more to grab onto. After all the milling of the sleeve had been done, I smoothed over all edges with a file, sandpaper, and steel wool.

Drilling holes in the sleeve for extra glue purchase

The drilled sleeve

Step 8 - Epoxy the sleeve into one half of the paddle shaft:
Using a marine grade epoxy with a 2 hour set time, I set the sleeve into the end of the shaft ~3 1/2". Once it was in place, I removed the excess epoxy squeeze-out with a rag, and left it to dry for 24 hours. The nice thing about using the longer set time epoxy was that I didn't feel rushed during the process, plus I believe it also produces a stronger bond than the quick set stuff.

The epoxy that I used

Mixin' it up

A good coating on the inside of the paddle shaft...

...and on the sleeve

Note the epoxy "squeeze out" where the shaft and sleeve meet

With the squeeze out wiped off

Step 9 - Setting the blade angle offset:
With the sleeve/shaft glue joint properly cured, the two paddle halves were joined by telescoping the sleeve of the one half into the open end of the other. Now with the full-sized paddle in hand I rotated the halves until I had the proper blade offset, in my case 30 degrees (right-hand control). To do this I matched it up with my current paddle. Once the blade angle was set, I taped the shafts together to hold the proper offset while I drilled for the quick-release button (step 10).

Step 10 - Drilling the quick-release button hole:
Remember that part I didn't know the name of when I was ordering it? Well now it was time to drill the hole for it. With the two paddle halves together (at the correct blade offset), I clamped the paddle to my drill press using a homemade jig out of a 2x4 to center it below the drill bit. Once the paddle was aligned properly to the drill press, I drilled through one wall of both the paddle shaft and sleeve -- make sure you don't accidentally drill all the way through the whole shaft.

My homemade centering jig

Clamping the paddle in place

Drilling the button hole

Shaft and sleeve with button hole
(drilled through one wall only)

Step 11 - Waterproofing:
There is probably no way to completely keep water from getting in the shaft, but a few things I did to help prevent it from happening were:
1. Wedging a closed-cell foam plug down the shaft of each of the paddle halves.
2. Making a seam gasket out of a section of road bike tube (700c x 18-25), which could be slid over the seam of the assembled paddle halves.

My homemade seam gasket

Step 12 - Setting the quick release button into the shaft:
With the shaft drilled for the quick release button, I slid it down the shaft until it snapped into place -- pretty straightforward.

The "quick release button connector"

Inserting the button into the sleeve

The button snapped into place

Step 13 - Assemble the two paddle halves together:
Check your work by joining the two paddle halves together. You may need to do a small amount of sanding/filing to get them to go together smoothly. Once the halves have been joined, slide the homemade gasket over the seam. Voila, you're done!

Back to its original form!

Step 14 - Go boating:
Disassemble the paddle, throw it in the back of your kayak, and go boating!

Quick Setup Z-Drag System

Z-Drags can come in handy, especially while creeking here in the mid-Willamette Valley where most of our runs are centered around boulder gardens. I've made it a habit of bringing my pin kit on pretty much every run, as it always seems that you need it when you don't have one with you. As many of my friends will tell you , I love gear, and this only encouraged me to put together a quick-setup pin kit. Here is what I came up with:

1- Spectra Throw Rope
1- Anchor Sling (webbing)
1- Standard Pulley
1- Braking Pulley (Petzl Mini Traxion)
1- Ultralight Ascender (Petzl Tibloc)
4- Carbineers (preferably locking)
2- Prusik Loops (for backup)
1- Yates Rescue Clip (with paddle blade attachment)

A quick disclaimer: Both the Petzl Mini Traxion and Tibloc use "teeth" to stop the rope from sliding in one direction. That said, if used incorrectly they can damage your rope. My understanding is that the teeth really only grab the sheath of the rope. I realize that opinions vary on this subject. Furthermore, these devices are meant for climbing, so I can't imagine that they would compromise the rope if used properly; however, you should always inspect it before and after each use. I always carry two ropes, so this really isn't much of an issue for me.

It should be noted that a side benefit of the Mini Traxion and Tibloc is that they can be used as ascenders to climb a rope; this could also come in quite handy during a rescue situation.

OK, on to the setup...

This is just like setting up a standard Z-Drag anchor to a tree or rock with a sling. Instead of using a standard pulley at the anchor, use the Mini Traxion which will eliminate the need for a prusik, since it has a built-in brake. As a side note, this device can also be used as a standard pulley, by disengaging the brake. Another nice feature about the Mini Traxion is that the side plate swivels out of the way, allowing you to attach it mid-rope.

The anchor point. Sling, carbineer, and braking pulley.

Teeth engaged (braking pulley)

Teeth disengaged (standard pulley)

Mini Traxion swivels open for attachment mid-rope

After your anchor is set (with the brake pulley), hook the next bend in the line back to the rope with the Tibloc, carabineer, and standard pulley combo. Basically, you're just replacing the traveling prusik with the Tibloc.

Setting up the traveling pulley

Tibloc locked in with a carbineer
(locking bineer preferred, non-locking shown)

The traveling pulley setup

The traveling pulley setup (zoomed out)

That's basically it: you have your 3:1 mechanical advantage and you're ready to pull your buddies' boat out of the jam he got it in!

The quick setup Z-Drag in action (sort of)...

This makes for an amazingly fast setup which is super easy to readjust. I have had to use it twice now and it works perfectly!